I've ordered several, and will write about them when I receive and have tested them. A similar but easier-to-use and less expensive device (quantity 10) appears to be the TLG10UA03. So it looks like a nice device, though with complications in wiring it up. I had no problem connecting to my router about 20 feet away. The module has a connector for attaching an antenna, but I just used the onboard antenna. It is probably possible for the incoming timing to be such that the picaxe would miss a character, but a message from the picaxe could be used as a "Clear-to-Send" signal, and a response within 3 seconds should be received reliably. This worked even if I waited through several incoming messages before hitting. I could see the message from the picaxe every 6 seconds, and when I typed a two-digit number and hit, I got a message back of, for instance, "received: 23". I connected to the device from a PC using putty, with designated IP and port, with a setting type of "raw". Serin on pin b.4 times out after 3 seconds if nothing is received. Goto mainThis blinks an led, and writes to pin b.5 about once every 6 seconds. '14wifi48.BAS blinks an led test for programming success Note that if you mangle the wifi connection and can't access the board, the manual shows how to ground a pin to reset to the factory configuration. I didn't know what "Remote Server Domain/IP" was supposed to do, so I changed it to a non-existant device in my network range. I set the bit rate at 4800,8,n,1, and the Network Mode as "Server". Once you do this and hit, you will lose your connection and have to reconnect using the ip you provided. I set the device to an ip on my network, 192.168.1.106, and set it up as a wifi client with a connection to an unencrypted test router (Omnibus9). I changed the configuration as shown in the image below. Similarly, I used a 2-pin header to connect TX and RX to the breadboard, bending pins 20 and 21 as needed.Ĭonfiguration is done wirelessly, by connecting your PC wifi to the module's AP and taking your browser to. I used a 3-pin row of turned header pins to link pins 1, 2, and 4 to the breadboard, bending pin 3 up out of the way and bending the other pins to fit the. The module takes 5 volts, but the I/Os need 3.3 volts, so I took advantage of another pin, pin 4 (which provides up to 300mA at 3.3V) to power the picaxe at 3.3V. Only 4 of the 28 pins are needed-5V, 0V, Rx, and Tx (pins 1, 2, 20, and 21). The device has 28 pins with a 2mm pitch, so it's not breadboard friendly. It's also available on Aliexpress, as is a test board for $7.80US ( ). The device is available from DX.com for $16.30US ( ). I have gotten a wifi-to-serial module, the HLK-RM04, to work with a picaxe.
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